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	<title>Green Building Construction &#187; Going Green Tips</title>
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	<link>http://www.nuclearmoose.com</link>
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	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 28 Dec 2011 22:50:42 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Upgrading to a high effiency dual flush in an existing toilet</title>
		<link>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/going-green-tips/upgrading-to-a-high-effiency-dual-flush-in-an-existing-toilet/</link>
		<comments>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/going-green-tips/upgrading-to-a-high-effiency-dual-flush-in-an-existing-toilet/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jul 2011 23:29:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Going Green Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dual flush toilet upgrade]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nuclearmoose.com/?p=268</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have a few 10 year old 1.6 gallon per flush kohler toilets in my house that I wanted to up the efficiency on. While there is always the old &#8220;brick in the tank&#8221; method I wanted to do something &#8230; <a href="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/going-green-tips/upgrading-to-a-high-effiency-dual-flush-in-an-existing-toilet/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignright" title="Dual Flush Toilet Upgrade Kit" src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51rbVVaAOrL.jpg" alt="" width="349" height="261" />I have a few 10 year old 1.6 gallon per flush kohler toilets in my house that I wanted to up the efficiency on. While there is always the old &#8220;brick in the tank&#8221; method I wanted to do something that was more intelligent and gave me options based on whether liquids or solids were being flushed. I opted for a kit at Amazon that does just that. It was easy to install and has 2 push buttons, the top flushes with about 1/2 a gallon and the bottom button, which is for solids, uses about 1 gallon per flush. </p>
<p>Installing it is a snap. First, make sure you have a 10-Inch height clearance to accommodate the height of the new flush system. Then remove your old tanks flapper and flushing handle. You will likely need a pair of pliers to get the handle off, mine was difficult due to hard water deposits.</p>
<p>To install it just slide the new unit onto the overflow pipe and set it down on to the opening where the flapper used to be, taking care to make sure the new rubber properly seals. Then connect the new dual button flush where the old hand used to be and tighten the nut. Once that is donet attach the line to the back of flush button while pushing in the side blue button to lock it onto the back of the flush button.</p>
<p>Make sure the water level in the toilet is high or the low volume flush may not work properly.</p>
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		<title>Adding a cheap rain barrel to your home</title>
		<link>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/going-green-tips/adding-a-cheap-rain-barrel-to-your-home/</link>
		<comments>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/going-green-tips/adding-a-cheap-rain-barrel-to-your-home/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 12 Jul 2011 23:08:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Going Green Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nuclearmoose.com/?p=250</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I live in Texas and contrary to what many people believe I do think global warming is here and will become more obvious as we move forward. This is one of the hottest Summers I can remember on record. We &#8230; <a href="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/going-green-tips/adding-a-cheap-rain-barrel-to-your-home/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I live in Texas and contrary to what many people believe I do think global warming is here and will become more obvious as we move forward.</p>
<p>This is one of the hottest Summers I can remember on record. We have been in the hundreds since June popped up on the calender. Rain has been scarce, and my yard is parched and looking crunchy.</p>
<p>So, how do we adjust to this new reality? I am researching rain barrels to install in my backyard. Looking online at Amazon and other places I see roughly 50 gallon barrels for $120 to $200. That seems really pricy to me for a large bucket I want to keep water in. So digging around on you tube I found this video on how to build your own with nothing more than a trashcan. Which started me thinking about what trash can and how much it will cost. I am going to make my own video and do a full set up to show people how it can be done for less than $75. Anyway, this is great information if you are looking for a cheap rain barrel to water your yard. Here is the video.
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		<title>LED Lights in your home</title>
		<link>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/energy/led-lights-in-your-home/</link>
		<comments>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/energy/led-lights-in-your-home/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Apr 2011 14:27:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Energy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Going Green Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.nuclearmoose.com/?p=205</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[You&#8217;ve noticed them popping up in flash lights, Christmas lights, car lights and even the occasional light bulb but what are LED lights and why are the so expensive? LED is short for Light Emitting Diode, and has been around &#8230; <a href="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/energy/led-lights-in-your-home/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You&#8217;ve noticed them popping up in flash lights, Christmas lights, car lights and even the occasional light bulb but what are LED lights and why are the so expensive?</p>
<p>LED is short for Light Emitting Diode, and has been around for decades. That red <a href="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/led.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-206" title="led" src="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/led-300x225.jpg" alt="led lights for home" width="220" height="165" /></a>computer light on your PC or the lights on the knobs of your stereo are probably one. The were originally made in red, green and yellow. As more manufacturers used them cost began to come down. So they started appearing in more electronics and more colors.</p>
<p>Spring forward to the last decade where energy has become a focal point of many governments and reducing dependence on foreign oil and you have laws that are being made to promote energy savings. An example of this is the the end to most incandescent light bulb sales here in the US in 2014.</p>
<h2>LED Light Bulb Advantages</h2>
<p>The big advantage of LED Lighting is the dramatic reduction in energy consumption. LEDs on average consume 10%of the energy than standard light bulbs. That is a dramatic <a href="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/LED-LB.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-207" title="LED LB" src="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/LED-LB-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="203" height="152" /></a>savings in energy consumption and $$$. The current issue with LEDs are the cost to install them. You have to think long term to justify buying a $40-$150 light bulb. I found a nifty LED cost calculator <a href="http://www.myledlightingguide.com/ROI.aspx">here</a> that gives tells you how much you save switching. Plugging in a standard home owners light bulb I would save on average $12 a year per bulb in energy cost. That would mean it would take about 3.5 years to recoup my cost on these bulbs. Not bad, but I think manufacturers can do better. When CFLs hit the market a decade ago they cost $10 a piece or more, now you can get a 3 pack for $7. Clearly economies of scale have to kick in before homeowners switch. But I expect that to happen quickly over the next few years as incandescent are no longer available and LEDs quickly become mainstream.</p>
<p>For now I would expect manufacturing, offices and other commercial spaces that run lights non stop to make the switch first. I would recommend changing any lights in your home that are constantly on be switched over now,  such as a porch light.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>Tankless Hot Water Heater</title>
		<link>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/energy/tankless-hot-water-heater/</link>
		<comments>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/energy/tankless-hot-water-heater/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 12 Apr 2011 19:31:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Energy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Going Green Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gellyfish.com/sizzle/?p=153</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[When looking at ways to cut your bills and become greener a tankless hot water heater is an excellent choice. These suitcase sized units are available in electric or gas models and can fit in just about any space. The &#8230; <a href="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/energy/tankless-hot-water-heater/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When looking at ways to cut your bills and become greener a tankless hot water heater is <a href="http://gellyfish.com/sizzle/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/tankless-hotwater.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-154" title="tankless hotwater" src="http://gellyfish.com/sizzle/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/tankless-hotwater-300x222.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="222" /></a>an excellent choice. These suitcase sized units are available in electric or gas models and can fit in just about any space. The advantage to these tankless units is that they do not keep a large tank of hot water ready for your use. Instead they heat up the water on demand, thus saving energy when the units are not in use which is about 90% of the time.Of course in order to do this they have to heat up the water fast and use a lot of energy to do so. In theory they will keep hot water coming as long as the owner needs it. I have owned a takagi unit for 6 years and have never run out of hot water, so they do work well.</p>
<p>A few things to keep in mind when deciding on a unit:</p>
<ul>
<li>Gas or Electric: this depends on how close the unit will be to a gas line, and what was in it&#8217;s place before. Gas tankless units usually require a 3/4&#8243; gas line coming to them. Most old hot water heaters have 1/2&#8243;. Older electric hot water heaters have a similar story, the older units usually have lower amp requirements. So in either case you may have to shell out $$$ to make the upgrades.</li>
<li>Plumbing requirements are about the same for either unit and comparable to the older units.</li>
<li>Venting for gas requires stainless steel vent pipes such as z-flex to comply with code. These are large 4&#8243; pipes and are single walled and also pricey.</li>
<li>Sizing: these units are only capable of generating so much hot water based on their size and BTU rating. Don&#8217;t get a small unit and expect 3 people to shower at the same time. You will end up with a luke warm shower at best. Take the time to decide which unit will work best for your needs. You can also put 2 or more of these on the same feed to split the work load.</li>
</ul>
<p>Expect to spend around $2500 to upgrade for an old style tank unit to a tankless. Your gas or electric savings will start immediately. It took me about 5 years to recoup my investment but it was worth the effort and cost.</p>
<p>Lets not forget with government incentives you can recoup hundreds of dollars in tax savings the year you install the unit.</p>
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		<title>Green Fiber Cement Siding Options</title>
		<link>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/uncategorized/green-fiber-cement-siding-options/</link>
		<comments>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/uncategorized/green-fiber-cement-siding-options/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2009 15:53:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>green cosntruction</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Going Green Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Green Siding]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nuclearmoose.com/green_construction_blog/?p=33</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If your doing research about how to build a green home then siding is a concern. There are not a lot of reasonably priced options to choose from when it comes to green siding. But Certainteed has introduced a siding &#8230; <a href="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/uncategorized/green-fiber-cement-siding-options/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If your doing research about how to build a green home then siding is a concern. There are not a lot of reasonably priced options to choose from when it comes to green siding. But<a target="_blank" href="http://www.buildingresponsibly.com/" rel="nofollow"> Certainteed</a> has introduced a siding that qualifies under the LEED, NAHB programs and is ICC code approved.</p>
<p>Their fiber cement siding uses fly ash, which is a nasty byproduct of burning coal that is caught in the stacks of power plants. So they are taking an otherwise wasted byproduct and incorporating it into this siding. They are also incorporating wood fiber from managed forest as well as more than 30% pre consumer recycled materials. All of this combines to make a green siding that is well worth considering. </p>
<p>Comparing this to James Hardie siding is a no brainer. They only claim to have recycled content in their products and be commited to reducing landfill waste by half.</p>
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		<title>Green Living in your Kitchen</title>
		<link>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/going-green-tips/green-living-in-your-kitchen/</link>
		<comments>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/going-green-tips/green-living-in-your-kitchen/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 30 Dec 2008 21:16:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>green cosntruction</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Going Green Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[kitchens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Green Kitchen Living]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nuclearmoose.com/green_construction_blog/?p=31</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Many people begin their quest for living green by changing their diet. While this is a wonderful first step, the room where your food is prepared is a next important step in the process of making your home, and therefore &#8230; <a href="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/going-green-tips/green-living-in-your-kitchen/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Many people begin their quest for living green by changing their diet. While this is a wonderful first step, the room where your food is prepared is a next important step in the process of making your home, and therefore your life, environmentally healthy.</p>
<p>One of the easiest and most logical green choices you can make in your kitchen, is the stocking of utensils and cookware that will last for years instead of days or months. Disposables should be left to catch dust on store shelves (maybe that way the manufacturers will produce less and less!). Choosing the most lasting of materials for your<br />
kitchen means you need to invest in stainless steel or cast iron pots and pans. While Teflon is great and easy to clean, it also lasts a much shorter length of time. (This is not to mention the debate over whether its surface is hazardous to human health, or not.) Also, cups and<br />
utensils should be chosen for quality as well. Wooden spoons will rot over time, plastic will turn or melt. You should choose high quality metal utensils. Your knives may be one of the most expensive investments in your cuisine, but you will appreciate their use and lasting quality when you are able to simply sharpen them by hand.</p>
<p>The heat you use to prepare your food can either be from electric or gas, as both are arguably equally detrimental to the environment (as they both have their source of fuel from fossil fuels). If you are going with gas, you should shop for a lower BTU output stove (as it is more energy efficient). If you choose electricity to heat your enchiladas, you should look at the newer induction elements. These are the most efficient of stoves and use the transfer of electromagnetic energy directly to your cooking pan. This leaves your stove top<br />
absolutely cool. This is not only a safety bonus, but it does not overheat your kitchen (which leads to you using less energy to cool your home).</p>
<p>While you may be all gung ho about converting your cooking space into a den of green friendly appliances, you will not want to go out and buy a new dishwasher, trash compactor, etc. unless your old one is ready to be recycled. Waste not, want not. If it is time to bid your current appliances farewell, then you are going to want to replace them with the most energy efficient models on the market (within your financial means). There are dishwashers that use so little water that they even beat out washing by hand. Look for the Energy Star rating of appliances when shopping. It will tell you, beyond hype, just how energy efficient your appliance is.</p>
<p>When it comes to your food, you should buy local and buy in bulk. This helps support your local community and also keeps you from making unnecessary trips up and down the highway wasting valuable natural resources. Also, when cooking, you should cook in bulk. This will save you time and energy in the future by simply freezing the excess food for another day.</p>
<p>Good luck in all of your green endeavors!</p>
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		<title>Green Waste Water Construction for a home</title>
		<link>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/uncategorized/green-waste-water-construction-for-a-home/</link>
		<comments>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/uncategorized/green-waste-water-construction-for-a-home/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Dec 2008 20:44:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>green cosntruction</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Going Green Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nuclearmoose.com/green_construction_blog/?p=27</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[One of the biggest waste of natural resources in a home is the use of water, then sending down the drain to the city for processing. This is a huge burden ecologically on our environment and creates unhealthy creeks and &#8230; <a href="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/uncategorized/green-waste-water-construction-for-a-home/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>One of the biggest waste of natural resources in a home is the use of water, then sending down the drain to the city for processing. This is a huge burden ecologically on our environment and creates unhealthy creeks and rivers for fish and wildlife due to all the chemicals and drugs that are present in the water. </p>
<p>There are some things that can be done to significantly reduce this waste and cut down on your water bills. Installing a gray water system can off load 50% or more of a homes water waster. Gray water is defined as water used for washing items such as clothes, dishwasher, and showers/tubs. Black water is much more difficult to clean and comes from toilets and garbage disposals, unless an advanced treatment installation is planned this water must go to the city for processing. </p>
<p>A simple gray water system needs a secondary set of pipes that run to a cistern or storage device and can be used to flush the toilet or water the yard. The main issue that if the gray water is to be stored it must by filtered to remove any microorganisms that may have contaminated it. This can create a costly system. The simplest system is to just use the water to irrigate gardens and plants. As long as the gray water does not contact the fruits or vegetables it is fine.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Ten Cheap Going Green Tips</title>
		<link>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/energy/ten-cheap-green-tips/</link>
		<comments>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/energy/ten-cheap-green-tips/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 Nov 2008 14:57:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>green cosntruction</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Energy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Going Green Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Green Tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nuclearmoose.com/green_construction_blog/?p=24</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[We all want to help out but the question is how without growing broke. Going green  requires a commitment and if your really committed you have to replace everything in your house. Well I don&#8217;t know about you but I &#8230; <a href="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/energy/ten-cheap-green-tips/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We all want to help out but the question is how without growing broke. Going green  requires a commitment and if your really committed you have to replace everything in your house. Well I don&#8217;t know about you but I don&#8217;t have 50K in a bank to spend on a new car and appliances. So here are my top 10 cheap tips to help you go green.</p>
<ul>
<li>Change out those old incandescent light bulbs.  If you&#8217;re like me you have about 30-40Â  in your house. Upgrading to CFLs will cost under $50 and will reduce your bill 10-20% a month. That is a no brainer.</li>
<li>Reduce your water footprint. If is is Summer water less often and soak instead of spray, which will dramatically reduce evaporation. Cut back on showers to every other day and make them snappy. Only run full loads of laundry and dishes. If you really want to green it up only flush on #2 unless the odor is too much for the nose.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Unplug or turn off that power strip powering everything in your entertainment center and computer. Even when those items are &#8220;off: they are still on standby. Standby accounts for 5-15% of a homes energy usage. Typical items such as a TV can use 5-10 watts in standby.  Here is a sample list of standby usage.</li>
</ul>
<ol>
<li>Fax machines: 4.7 &#8211; 11.6 W</li>
<li>VCR&#8217;s: 2.0 &#8211; 6.6 W</li>
<li>TV&#8217;s: 0.6 &#8211; 12.7 W</li>
<li>Scanners (flatbed): 8.3 &#8211; 14.2 W on standby; 0 &#8211; 5.1 W switched off</li>
<li>Printers (inkjet): 1.6 &#8211; 8.6 W on standby; 0 &#8211; 8.4 W switched off</li>
</ol>
<ul>
<li>Set your air 2 degrees higher in summer and 2 degrees lower in winter. This cuts down on your electricity usage and saves you green to the tune of 10% off your electric bill in Summer.</li>
<li>Wash your clothes in cold water. This reduces your gas or electric heating bill.</li>
<li>Lower your hot water heater 5-10 degrees. This will reduce your gas or electric bill 3%.</li>
<li>Use a toaster or microwave in Summer when ever possible to reduce heat in the house from the oven. This will reduce how hard your a/c works to keep the house cool.</li>
<li>Recycle. Most cities are now offering curb side pick up. To not take advantage of this is almost criminal. 75% of the items thrown away in a typical house can be recycled and dramatically reduce landfill and manufacturing cost.</li>
<li>Seal those windows and doors. Make sure all your windows are properly sealed ( use a candle on a windy day to see if there are air leaks). Install weather stripping around doors and windows to seal them up.</li>
<li>Give up those cheap plastic bags and start using your own. These things should be outlawed. They end up everywhere in the environment and never break down. Whole foods has great bags that cost $1 and are perfect for groceries and anything else you can carry in them.</li>
</ul>
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		<title>Green Roofing Alternatives</title>
		<link>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/going-green-tips/green-roofing-alternatives/</link>
		<comments>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/going-green-tips/green-roofing-alternatives/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Nov 2008 16:51:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>green cosntruction</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Going Green Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[roofing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nuclearmoose.com/green_construction_blog/?p=20</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If you live in the typical American home you have shingles. Most of today&#8217;s homes have ashpalt shingles which is a residue formed after the distillation of petroleum. This is mixed with sand and other materials to make the modern &#8230; <a href="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/going-green-tips/green-roofing-alternatives/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you live in the typical American home you have shingles. Most of today&#8217;s homes have ashpalt shingles which is a residue formed after the distillation of petroleum. This is mixed with sand and other materials to make the modern shingle. It is definitely not green and they only last 15-30 years. If you live in the hot Sun that number drops even lower. They then have to be torn off and replaced which creates a lot of landfill waste and is definitely not green. Currently very few states offer asphalt shingle recycling. There are alternatives to this.</p>
<p>Picking a roof with a much longer life cycle is a great way to cut down on landfill. Metal roofs are one option. There are many types of metal roofs such as standing seam that will last 50 years and more. These are made from aluminum, steel, or copper. Once they have lived out their lifecycle they can be torn off and recycled. Some manufacturers have started offering products made from recycled materials which further contributes to the greenness of the product.</p>
<p>Tile roofs are another option for roofing and are made from natural materials with a very long life expectancy of 60 years and more. The do tend to be heavy and require special bracing to accomodate them so are not ideal choices in many areas.</p>
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		<title>Radiant Barrier Insulation</title>
		<link>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/uncategorized/radiant-barrier-insulation/</link>
		<comments>http://www.nuclearmoose.com/uncategorized/radiant-barrier-insulation/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Nov 2008 15:22:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>green cosntruction</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Going Green Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[radiant barrier]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Radiant Barrier is a great option to keep your home cool in Summer and warm in Winter. It works the same way wrapping a potato in foil works. It slows the transfer of heat from the roof to the attic &#8230; <a href="http://www.nuclearmoose.com/uncategorized/radiant-barrier-insulation/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Radiant Barrier is a great option to keep your home cool in Summer and warm in Winter. It works the same way wrapping a potato in foil works. It slows the transfer of heat from the roof to the attic space. This can result in dramatically cooler attic space in Summer. We have installed this in our own space and notice that even on the hottest Summer days the temperature is a manageable 98 degrees. Most attics will tend to get into the 120-140 range.</p>
<div id="attachment_18" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://gellyfish.com/sizzle/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/radiantbarrier.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-18" title="radiant barrier" src="http://gellyfish.com/sizzle/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/radiantbarrier-300x225.jpg" alt="Radiant Barrier Foil installed in an attic" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Radiant Barrier Foil installed in an attic</p></div>
<p>Radiant Barrier is in its simplest form aluminum which is an excellent reflector of Infrared (IR). Infrared Heat is what really makes an attic hot in the Summer. Up to 95% of this heat can be reflected back out if the radiant barrier is correctly installed.</p>
<p>There are 2 kinds of radiant barrier. Radiant barrier paint is the first type and is sprayed under the roof on the back side of the decking. If properly installed you can see 75% reduction in IR heat. But it is a messy and difficult product to install. The second type is Radiant Barrier Foil. This product ships on rolls and installs under the rafters which also creates a dead space of air between the rafters and the roof. It is simply stapled on and the seams are taped. We have installed this product and seen a 10% drop in our cooling bill in Summer as a result with a pay back of only a few years.</p>
<p>If you are installing a new roof, they now make radiant barrier plywood which installs the same as standard plywood. It cost about $5 more per sheet which will add a few hundred dollars to the roof bill, but once again will pay for itself quickly.</p>
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